Кунианг Чиш Восточный
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Кунианг Чиш Восточный - восточная вершина массива Кунианг Чиш в Каракорумском хребте Хиспар Музтаг. Высота 7431 м, координаты:
- 36° 11.79' СШ
- 75° 13.57' ВД
Вершина знаменита своей непокоренной юго-западной стеной. Из под северной стены вершины берет начало юго-западная ветвь ледника Язгиль. Из-под юго-восточной стены - северо-западная ветвь ледника Ютмару - правого притока ледника Хиспар. Наконец, из под юго-западной стены стекает более мелкий правый приток ледника Хиспар - ледник Пумари Чиш.
Известны три попытки восхождения на Куниянг Чиш Восточный, и все с ледника Пумари Чиш, над которым вершина возвышается на 2500 м.
Польская и американская экспедиции пытались одолеть юго-западную стену в альпийском стиле. Корейская команда попробовала осадный стиль. Возможно были и другие попытки, которые были предприняты без пермита. Так, корейский отчет об экспедиции упоминает французскую экспедицию без чиновника связи в базовом лагере (и поэтому, вероятно, без разрешения).
В 2007 г. Валерий Бабанов и Патрик Делэни (Patrick Delaney) запланировали восхождение, которое, однако, не состоялось.
Первая попытка подняться по стене состоялась в июне 2003 г. Десять корейских восходителей во главе с Sung Man Park попытались подняться на вершину, включив в маршрут висячий ледник западнее стены. Они провесили веревки до высоты 6100 м и отступили из-за сложности дальнейшего пути.
Через два месяца состоялась вторая попытка, которая была предпринята польскими альпинистами Гжегожем Скореком, Янушем Голабом и Стэниславом Пичучем (Grzegorz Skorek, Janusz Golab and Stanislaw Piechuch). Для подъема они избрали более примой путь. Восхождение началось в 17.30. До четыех часов утра они поднялись более чем на 1000 м по снежно-ледовому рельефу максимальной крутизной до 70 град. В 5.30 они продолжили подъем по трудному миксту без страховки. Поскольку условия начали ухудшаться, то альпинисты отложили восхождение на вечер и стартовали в 17 часов. Восхождение в эту вторую ночь было более трудным. На высоте 6300 м был организован бивак. Рано утром альпинисты продолжили восхождение и достигли к полудню высоты 6700 м, где организовали очередной бивак. На следующее утро погода начала портиться, и команда решила спуститься вниз в базовый лагерь.
Третья попытка была предпринята в сентябре 2006 г. американской двойкой - Стив Хаус и Винс Андерсон (Steve House and Vince Anderson). Во второй день восхождения двойка подошла к достигнутой поляками высшей точки 6700 м. Утром третьего дня они поднялись еще на 300 м, поднялись на кромку юго-восточного ребра вершины и отступили перед его карнизами - "Направо был массивный карниз, налево была крутая, чистая скала". Погода к концу дня ухудшалась, и альпинисты были вынуждены начать спуск. После напряженной ночи двойка возвратилась вниз следующим утром.
Enlarge
Steve House and Vince Anderson's route up the SW face
Getting There
General information about reaching the Karakoram area can be found on the SP Karakoram page.
From either Karimabad or Aliabad in Hunza first arrange a Jeep to the village of Nagar and then arrange a further one to the village of Hispar at the western end of the Hispar glacier. It is not possible to take a Jeep from Hunza directly to Hispar unless to driver is from Nagar as the road beyond Nagar is privately owned and only local Nagar drivers are allowed to use it. This unfortunately will put you in a poor bargaining position. Since there is no public transport between the villages having arranged a fee for your special hire’ half the village will likely to join you for the journey without contributing to the fair. Public transport from Aliabad to Nagar leaves regularly as soon as vehicles fill up. They are likely to charge a little extra if you are carrying an expedition load on the roof. The road to Hispar sometimes blocks after rain and you may need to arrange porters on route, such as the village of Huru, as we had to. A base camp can be reached in two or three days from Hispar village. If you have more than five porters then a guide is compulsory according to village rules (but not government rules). Hispar porters unfortunately do not have a reputation for being the most reliable so a guide may not be such a bad idea for this trek in. Steve House and Vince Anderson were the latest people to have porter problems this year highlighting that their bad reputation is unfortunately still justified. Porters ask for Rs450 per stage including wapasi (so Rs300in effect). Wapasi is what you pay to the porter to return to where the trek began if it has finished elsewhere. For every stage half a stage is paid in Wapasi. I am not sure of the specific number of stages to base camp but it will be around five.
Enlarge Jeep ride from Nagar to Hispar
Enlarge Porters trekking out of Hispar village
Enlarge Trivor (left) & Bularung Sar (right) rising above the Kunyang Glacier
The trek along Hispar is a memorable one, even if you have spent a lot of time in Pakistan before. Whereas much of the Northern areas consist of arid valleys capped with white peaks, the north side of the Hispar glacier is lined with numerous meadows and great camping spots. The trek involves no trekking on the Hispar glacier and follows ablation valleys the whole way. From Hispar village the trail descends to the Hispar River where it crosses a bridge to its true left bank. A short distance further a small river that runs through a shallow gorge needs to be crossed. This can be problematic if you attempt it in the afternoon as I found out! The Kunyang Glacier needs to be crossed on route which is an easy affair although the 'path' descending on to the western side of the glacier is becoming particularly desperate. There are awesome views of Bularung Sar (7200m), Trivor (7720m) and the mighty Kunyang Chhish massif at the northern end of the glacier. Beyond the Kunyang glacier the landscape becomes less arid with numerous pastures. The Pumari Chhish glacier is only a couple of hours further east.
Enlarge Unnamed prominent peak on the east side of the Pumari Chhish glacier
Enlarge Kunyang Chhish East (left) and an unnamed peak (right) above the Pumari Chhish glacier
Enlarge Ice Cake, 6400m (left) and Kunyang Chhish (right)
To attempt the peak from the east would mean setting up a base camp on the West Jutmo glacier which can be reached from Hispat in around five days. To reach the northern side of the mountain involves a hard trek up the Yazghil glacier from the village of Shimshal which is conected by a Jeep track from the settlement of Passu on the Karakoram highway. Information on Shimshal can be found on my Yazghil Sar page. It wil take around three days to reach a base camp depending on the condition of the Upper end of the Yazghil glacier. The northern side of Kunyang Chhish is hidden behind the Pumari Chhish massif until in relatively close proximity.
Enlarge
The Kunyang Chhish (left) and Pumari Chhish (right) massifs from Haigutum East
Red Tape
Royalty Fees
The Ministry of Tourism has decided to maintain the 10% reduction in mountaineering royalty fees for peaks above 6500m in the Gilgit region (excluding Spantik) during 2009 in an attempt to attract more expeditions to the Karakoram.
Royalties per expedition are based on a party of 7. Persons additional to this number will be subject to an additional royalty fee.
Note: These rates are only for the Gilgit region of the Karakoram which includes Hunza and Gojal (Upper Hunza).
Royalties for other areas of the Karakoram are 50% the normal rate. See the Karakoram page which I am currently building for details...
No Liaison Officer is currently required for the Gilgit region!
This makes the mountain very cheap to climb since it is not in a restricted zone.
Current royalties are listed below for the Gilgit Region.
Elevation Normal Fee Fee for 2009 Royalty per expedition Additional royalty per person Royalty per expedition Additional royalty per person 7501 - 8000m $4000 $500 $400 $50 7001 - 7500m $2500 $400 $250 $40 6501 - 7000m $1400 $200 $140 $20 Up to 6500m $1400 $200 No fee No fee
Peak royalties are only 5% the normal rate for a winter attempt although this is only for the masocists. Visas
A valid visa is required. Visas are NOT issued at the airport and must be obtained prior to arrival. Some embassies such as those in Central Asia are reluctant to issue visas and advise you to obtain them from your home country. A single-entry tourist visa is valid for 3 months from the date of arrival in pakistan and for 6 months from the date of issue. Some visas are only valid for 3 months from the date of issue so check if necessary when applying. Visa prices vary. Americans pay the most for their visa whilst Japanese get theirs free! Visa extensions and reentry stamps used to almost impossible to obtain however the process has become remarkably easier in the last few years. Gilgit DC is a good place to try.
Enlarge The Kunyang Chhish massif (center-left) as seen from Haighutum East
Enlarge View south along the Yazghil Glacier to the Hispar Muztagh (Kunyang Chhish East not visible)
Enlarge The Yazghil Glacier from the summit of Yazghil Sar (Kunyang Chhish Est not visible) Camping A base camp can be made at Phush Dalala (dirty-smell place) at 4200m, which is approximately one hours walk north up the Pumari Chhish glacier. The campsite takes its name from stones that have a chemical smell. Further south a base camp could alternatively be made at Dachigan on the west side of the Pumari Chhish Glacier where it meets the Hispar Glacier. From Dachigan the mountain can easily be reached by following the lateral moraine along the west side of the glacier. There is also an expansive flat, grassy area on the east side of the Pumari Chhish glacier however there is no water here.
Enlarge Bitanmal with Makrong Chhish (6607m) rising from the south side of the Hispar glacier
Enlarge Campsite on the east side of the Pumari Chhish Glacier Maps The only map that I have seen that accurately surveys the height of Khunyang Chhish East is the Russian maps which are available in 1:50,000 and 100,000 editions. They are available online (ask no questions about copyright!) via the links below. It is these maps that I have based Kunyang Chhish East's altitude. The Russian maps are expensive to buy at around $75 and $50 respectively. There is also a series of Japanese maps that claim to have fully surveyed all peaks on their sheets however I have not seen these as they do not appear to be widely distributed. The Swiss maps are fine for general route finding and readily available. The two sheets cover the entirety and most people who have climbed in the Karakoram own a copy. Kunyang Chhish East is stated as being c.7400m high and this is the height more commonly quoted for the mountain (even though it is only an estimate). The Swiss map is considerably better than the Leomann and AMS maps which are also readily available but not worth purchasing in my opinion. External Links EverestNews.com - Korean Expedition Report
EverestNews.com - 2003 Polish Expedition Report
Alpinist.com Report of Polish and American attempts
American Trip Report (Good topo) & Slide Show
Valery Babanov and Patrick Delaney's non-attempt (Web blog) Images
[ View Gallery - 5 More Images ]
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Куньянг Чхиш Ист
Тип Страницы: Гора/Скала
Местоположение: Северные Области, Пакистан, Азия
Lat/Lon: 36.19753 N / 75.22553 E
Графство: Nagar / Gojal
Действия: Альпинизм, Большая Стена, Смешанная
Сезон: Лето
Возвышение: 24380 футов / 7431 м.
Страница: BigLee
Созданный/Отредактированный: 25 ноября 2006 / 21 апреля 2009
Удостоверение личности объекта: 246702
Хиты: 4511 Погрузка...
Счет Страницы: Голоса на 89.65 % - 26 Погрузка...
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Оглавление
Краткий обзор
Восхождение на Описания Истории и Маршрута
Получение Там
Бюрократизм Платы Лицензионного платежа Визы
Кемпинг
Карты
Внешние ссылки
Увеличить
Смешанное Юго-западное Лицо Куньянга Чхиша Иста
Увеличить Куньянг Чхиш Ист (право) как замечено от Иста Джатмо Глэкира
Увеличить
Kunyang Chhish горный массив от Bitanmal на северной стороне Ледника Hispar
Восхождение на Описания Истории и Маршрута Десять корейцев человека expeditio
