Машербрум — различия между версиями

Версия 17:35, 11 марта 2010

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Машербрум (Masherbrum) (7821) - высочайшая вершина каракорумского хребта Машербрум (Центральный Каракорум). Во многих публикациях вершины Гашербрум III и Нупцзе не считают отдельными массивами и позиционируют Машербрум, как 22-ю по высоте вершину мира.

Машербрум был открыт в 1856 Томасом Монтгомери, который обозначил гору на карте, как K1. У вершины имеется две отстоящие друг от друга менее чем на 200 метров главы. Главная (северная) глава имеет высоту 7821 м. высотой, а юго-западная глава - 7806 м.

В северной главе сходятся восточный гребень вершины и северо-восточное ребро, которое заканчивается 10-километровым северным отрогом. В юго-западной главе сходятся западный гребень вершины и короткое южное ребро. Водораздел хребта Машербрум проходит по западному и восточному гребням. Между отмеченными гребнями и ребрами расположены юго-западная стена, северная или северо-западная стена, северо-восточная стена и юго-восточный склон вершины.

Северо-западная стена обращена к леднику Манду (Mandu, на советской карте - Мунду), а северо-восточная стена - к леднику Ерманенду (Yermanendu). Оба ледника являются левыми притоками ледника Балторо и имеют длину 8 км и 10 км. Юго-западная стена и юго-восточный склон вершины обращены к леднику Машербрум, который начинается на юго-восточном склоне и стекает на юг и юго-восток, имея в длину около 16 км.

Первое восхождение на главную вершину осуществила американо-пакистанская экспедиция во главе с Ником Клинчем (Nick Clinch) в 1960 г. Восхождение проходило по юго-восточному склону. Вершины достигли американцы Джордж Белл (George Bell) и Вилли Ансуэл (Willi Unsoeld).

Первое и единственное восхождение на юго-западную главу совершила польская команда в 1981 г. Однако восхождение окончилось трагически. Трое восходителей Зигмунт Анджей Генрих (Zygmunt Andrjej Heinrich), Марек Малатинский (Marek Malatynski) и Прземислав Новацкий (Przemyslaw Nowacki) из большой польской команды достигли с юго-востока седловины между главной и юго-западной главами Машербрума (высота седловины почти 7800 м), организовали бивак и поднялись на юго-западную вершину. На следующем биваке Новацкий и Малатинский умерли, а Генрих в одиночку спустился с вершины, чудом оставшийся в живых после срыва и падения на 200-300 м на высоте 7500 м.

Машербрум - одна из сложнейших гор среди вершин выше 7500 м, и только четыре восхождения оказались успешными. У Masherbrum SE есть только один подъем. Много попыток сдались в ответ на высокий риск объективных опасностей. Большинство попыток столкнулось с лавинами по соседству однако, за исключением первого подъема пика SE в 1981, ни один не закончился в бедствии.

В 2,5 км к западу от Машербрума в водоразделе хребта Машербрум расположен самостоятильный двуглавый массив пика Манду (Mandu) (7127), который отделен от Машербрума седловиной высотой 6500 м. В соответствии с базой высот SRTM, западная и восточная главы пика Манду имеют высоты 7015 м и 7040 м. Расстояние между главами 400 м, а перемычка между ними имеет высоту около 6960 м.

В 1,75 км к востоку от Машербрума имеется еще один самостоятельный семитысячник - Восточный Машербрум или и Ерманенду Кангри (Yermanendu Kangri) (7163). Эта вершина отделена от Машербрума седловиной высотой 6760 м.

Огромное количество людей любовалось Машербрумом с ледника Балторо или из Конкордии, однако с этих сторон (северо-западная стена и северо-восточная стена) до сих пор не совершено ни одного восхождения. Попытки были, и в том числе российской команды под руководством Одинцова в 2007 г., но все они оказались неудачными.

В 1983 г. японская экспедиция повторила американский маршрут 1960 г. На вершину взошли Masahiro Nomura и Takeyasu Minamiura.

summite via the same route as the American's in 1960.

Enlarge Masherbrum from Gondogoro Peak (5700m) to the east Climbing History I'm still researching the mountain's history but the bulk of it is listed below...

Year Team Route Summit? Significance Description 1938 British team SW Face N An expedition led by James Waller reached 7602m before they were avalanched. Fortunately nobody was hurt but it was decided to abort the attempt. 1955 New Zealand team SE Face N Gave up due to deep snow 1957 British team SE Face N Came within 100m of the summit 1960 American Team SE Face Y First ascent

William Unsoeld, George Bell, Nicholas Clinch and Jawed Akhter.

1976 Japanese team W Ridge/N Ridge N From a BC on the Mandu Glacier the 14 man Japanese team established camp I on the west ridge at 16000ft before the route was destroyed by an avalanche. Subsequently attempted the north ridge but only reached 18200ft before running out of time and gear. 1980 David Belden & Christine de Colombel SE Face N Reached a high point of 23625ft but descended due to bad weather and heavy snowfall after their tent had been avalanched in the night. 1981 Polish team SE Face Y First ascent of SW peak Summited by Zygmunt Andrjej Heinrich, Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki formed part of a larger team. BC was established on Serac Glacier from where they climbed to the col between the two Masherbrum summits. Here they bivouacked in a snow hole before continuing to the SW summit. During another high bivouack Nowacki and Malatynski died in the night having been exposed to strong cold winds throughout as well as the preceding day. Heinrich made it back to BC but was lucky to survive a 650-1000ft fall at 24600 ft. 1981 Volker Stallbohm & Abdul Karim SE Face N Reached the col between Masherbrum and Yermanendu Kangri but could not continue to the summit due to bad weather and lack of food. 1981 American team N Face & W Ridge N From a BC on the Mandu Glacier they reached a high point at 5486m where they had a close encounter with serac fall and promptly decided the route was too dangerous to continue. 1981 British team N SW peak attempt Reached 23400ft at which point bad weather broke out and they were unable to go any higher. 1983 Japanese Team Y Second ascent Masahiro Nomura and Takeyasu Minamiura summite via the same route as the American's in 1960.

1985 Japanese Team N Ridge Y Third ascent, new route Siege-style over a period of a month and a half fixing much rope. Frequent collapse of the upper glacier force them to traverse right to the NW ridge. Placed high camps at 5600m (I), 6100m (II), 6300m (III), 7200m (IV). Above camp IV the team were forced to traverse further right onto the NW Face due to rotten rock on the NW Ridge. Eventually they reached the col between the main and SW summits. All ten members reached the summit. 1985 Austrian team NW Face Y Fourth ascent A 6 man team that also sieged the mountain but fixed only 600m. Two summit attempts were made from camp III at 6300m. The first was abandoned at 7000m at which point 2 members left the expedition due to the enormous danger of falling rock and ice. On the second attempt one member gave up while the other three bivouacked at 7200m before continuing to the summit. The summiteers were Andreas Orgler, Michael Larcher and Robert Renzler. They reached the summit the day after the Japanese. 1985 British team E Ridge from North N From the Yermanendu Glacier to the north they attempted the east ridge, climbing from the Masherbrum La to the summit via several subsidiary summits including Yermanandu Kangri (7821m). They was quickly thwarted due to poor snow conditions. 1996 Russian-American team SE Face N The six man expedition attempted the peak in semi-alpine style. They reached a high point of 7200m at which point they decided the avalanche risk was too great to continue. 1996 American team E-SE Ridge N Four man team led by Peter Cole reached a high point of 6050m. At camp II (5650m) they were avalanched from both sides. They were uninjured but had to wait three days for snow conditions to improve before descending to BC. 2000 N Details to follow 2003 Steve House, Marko Prezelj & Matic Jost N ridge N Initially set a BC up in the Mandu Glacier however it was impossible to gain the ridge as the Austrians had done in 1985. BC was moved to the Yermanendu Glacier via a small pass. The attempt on Masherbrum was soon abandoned due to persistently poor snow conditions that lead to a number of slab avalanches. 2006 Russian Team NW Face N Objective danger of the route repeatedly increased after 4-day snowfalls meant the team went no higher than ABC (5800m) Getting There All approaches are via the town of Skardu. Skardu has daily flights between Islamabad and these rarely get cancelled due to bad weather as with the Gilgit flights. The alternative is a long bus ride between Islamabad and Gilgit and a further six hours onward to Skardu. From Skardu it’s easy to hire a jeep to Askole via the Shigar Valley or Hushe via the Shyok Valley.

The Southern Side

The Southern approach begins from Serac Glacier which flows into the Masherbrum Glacier. Hushe is the gateway village from where the base camp can be reached in one day. From Hushe cross the bridge to the true right (west) side of the Hushe River and follow the valley north branching left into the Masherbrum Valley.

Enlarge Hushe village

Enlarge Masherbrum from the Hushe Valley

The Northern Side

The northern base camps are approached via the Baltoro Glacier which is Pakistan’s second longest and most famous. The trek along Baltoro begins in the village of Askole to the west from where the terminal moraine of the Baltoro glacier can be reached in two days. Masherbrum is a further two days trek along the Baltoro Glacier. The glacier is fairly easy to navigate due to the large volume of trekkers breaking the route Route-finding will be required at the beginning of the season due to glacial movement through the winter.

Enlarge Road to Askole

Enlarge Askole village

Enlarge Masherbrum from Baltoro Glacier

The Eastern Side

Those ambitious enough to consider the long East Ridge from the Masherbrum La (5364m) will need to follow the true left bank of the Masherbrum River and ascend the Gondogoro Glacier in two days.

For broader information on reaching the Karakoram please refer to the Karakoram page Red Tape Visas

Enlarge NW aspect of Masherbrum's summit

A valid visa is required. Visas are NOT issued at the airport and must be obtained prior to arrival. Some embassies such as those in Central Asia are reluctant to issue visas and advise you to obtain them from your home country. A single-entry tourist visa is valid for 3 months from the date of arrival in pakistan and for 6 months from the date of issue. Some visas are only valid for 3 months from the date of issue so check if necessary when applying. Visa prices vary. Americans pay the most for their visa whilst Japanese get theirs free! Visa extensions and reentry stamps used to almost impossible to obtain however the process has become remarkably easier in the last few years. Gilgit DC is a good place to try.

Climbing Royalties

The Ministry of Tourism has decided to maintain the 50% reduction in mountaineering royalty fees for peaks above 6500m during 2009. Royalties per expedition are based on a party of 7. Persons additional to this number will be subject to an additional royalty fee. Current royalties are listed below.

1938 at SW Face AAJ 1939 3 3 372,373 162 1938 at SW Face AJ 1938 50 257 199-211 y 162 1938 at SW Face AJ 1998 103 347 218-224 y 162 1938 at SW Face HJ 1939 11 42-56 y y 162 1955 at SE Face AJ 1956 61 292 29-37 y 490 1955 at SE Face NZAJ 1956 16 43 333-340 y y 490 1957 at SE Face AAJ 1958 11 32 122-125 477 1957 at SE Face AJ 1958 63 297 169-184 y 477 1957 at SE Face HJ 1958 21 16-32 y y 477 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks AAJ 1961 12 35 209 y 457 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks AJ 1962 67 9 y 457 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks GHMA 1960 2-8 y y 457 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks HJ 1959/60 22 51-69 y 457 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks Mount 1975 42 26-29 y 457 1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks MW 1962/63 62/63 40-49 y 457 1976 at W Ridge, also N Ridge AAJ 1977 21 51 268,269 1752 1980 at W Ridge AAJ 1981 23 55 295,296 2798 1981 at AAJ 1982 24 56 270-273 2933 1981 at N Face and W Ridge AAJ 1982 24 56 270-273 2932 1981 at N Face and W Ridge DieAlp 1982 78-79 2932 1983 as S Face (American route) AAJ 1984 26 58 296 2543 1983 as S Face (American route) AJ 1984 89 333 213 2543 1983 as S Face (American route) DieAlp 1984 105-107 2543 1985 as NW Face AAJ 1986 28 60 277 y 2219 1985 as NW Ridge, N Face AAJ 1986 28 60 275 y 2220 1985 at E Ridge from N AAJ 1986 28 60 277 2218 1985 as NW Face AJ 1986 91 335 210-211 2219 1985 as NW Ridge, N Face AJ 1986 91 335 210-211 2220 1985 as NW Face DieAlp 1986 109-111 2219 1985 as NW Ridge, N Face DieAlp 1986 109-111 2220 1985 at E Ridge from N MEF 1985 10 2218 2000 at HJ 2001 57 206-212 6138

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Mandu Машербрум Восточный